Portugal: The Perfect Family Destination for Walkable Cities and Beautiful Beaches

Discovering Portugal with the Family Destination

Portugal Great Family Destination

We brought a tooth to Portugal. It wasn’t planned. Our six-year-old daughter’s first wiggly tooth had been bothering her for days and had fallen out just before we left for the airport. I wrapped the precious cargo in tissue, promising that the tooth fairy would visit her once we reached Lisbon.

We were setting off on what Lulu called “the magazine trip.” She’d been desperate to join me on my recent book tour, which wasn’t possible, but here, finally, was an adventure for all of us. For Lulu, there would be many firsts: her first transatlantic flight; her first visit to Europe; her first time staying anywhere that wasn’t an Airbnb or a great deal on Priceline.

Though my husband, Adam, and I had traveled extensively before becoming parents, this would be only our second family vacation, with four destinations in Portugal spread over 10 days. We’d talked about visiting Portugal for years. Adam, a documentary filmmaker, loves Pedro Costa’s Letters from Fontainhas, a trilogy of films set in Lisbon. Over the years, my interest had been piqued by stories from our friends Miranda and Gabriel, who’d lived in Portugal when their first child was an infant. During my own childhood, I was fortunate to have my curiosity shaped by traveling with my parents. Here was a chance to continue that tradition with Lulu.

First Impressions of Lisbon

Portugal Great Family Destination

Lisbon was glowing. Even after only two hours’ sleep on the red-eye flight, I was convinced that Portugal had a brighter sun and bluer sky than suburban Chicago, where we live. “Are we climbing a mountain?” Lulu sighed with the weariness of a child from the hill-less Midwestern suburbs. We’d walked exactly one block. She hadn’t wanted to leave our apartment at the luxurious Martinhal Chiado Lisbon hotel, having immediately climbed onto the bunk bed and changed into the child-size terry robe.

While Adam and Lulu sat on the square and listened to a busker playing electric violin, I lined up for a 6 p.m. seating at Taberna da Rua das Flores, which Miranda and Gabriel had promised us was the best restaurant in Lisbon. A tiny place with a cash-only, no-reservations policy, dining there required extra effort, but the food was indeed exquisite.

Lulu perched on a stool between us at a table for two, receiving the procession of small plates — razor clams, scallops, goat cheese covered in ashes, bittersweet tiramisu, and more — like a jet-lagged little queen.

In the morning, she discovered that the Portuguese tooth fairy had left six euros in her heart-shaped tin.

Exploring Lisbon’s Cultural Gems

The Museu Nacional do Azulejo

Portugal Great Family Destination

How does one become fascinated with a place? What role does beauty play? I suppose I’ve always felt drawn to photos of Lisbon’s old-world grandeur and its buildings covered in tiles the color of the ocean.

Tile-making is considered an art form integral to the country’s identity. (Fun fact: the term azulejo is derived from the Arab word for a “small polished stone.”) During a workshop at the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, we decorated tiles of our own, using charcoal and a stencil to apply the pattern, then adding color. Our visit to the rest of the museum, which is housed in a former convent and showcases examples dating back to the 15th century, was brief, my desire for tile-gazing conflicting with Lulu’s flagging energy level. We were learning how to travel at her pace.

The Museu da Marioneta

More successful was the perfectly proportioned Museu da Marioneta, where dramatically lit exhibits of puppets from around the world give way to larger displays celebrating the artistry of Portuguese puppet makers. While Lulu enjoyed trying on a roberto (glove puppet) and performing as “jet lag puppet,” she preferred Lisbon’s simple pleasures — tiny robe, bunk bed, evening stroll — and thrilled at the chance to people-watch as we walked from the Santos neighborhood back to our hotel in Chiado.

Scenic Views and Hidden Treasures

Castelo de São Jorge

Portugal Great Family Destination

Though I’d organized most of our itinerary around Lulu’s interests, on our last day in Lisbon, we set out to look at the city’s terra-cotta rooftops from the Castelo de São Jorge, a medieval castle on a hilltop. After convincing Lulu not to chase the peacocks, I led us downhill through the winding streets of the Alfama neighborhood to the Hospital de Bonecas (Hospital for Dolls), located in an old apartment building in Praça da Figueira.

Hospital de Bonecas

My first novel, The School for Good Mothers, includes lifelike child robots called “dolls,” so once I learned of this place, we had to go.

Our guide, Marta Machado, a doll nurse of 24 years, explained how the hospital, a family business since 1830, restores antique dolls from around the world, some more than a century old. Describing the hospital’s intake process, Machado said: “We look at the problems and tell you about the triage-ing. We have a paper with the number of the hospital bed.”

Part of the doll hospital’s immense charm is the staff’s total commitment to both premise and execution. This is a hospital; the patients just happen to be dolls. You’ll enjoy it more if you, too, are willing to believe.

There were tables of broken doll bodies, shelves of legs, trays of eyes, rows of vintage heads, faces peeking out of glass windows in cabinets, one with a single tear falling from her eye, another mid-scream. Some might find the hospital and the attached museum a bit spooky, but I felt truly transported, lost in the joy and wonder of this singular place. Lulu, meanwhile, was rewarded for her patience with dollhouse toys from the shop — books, candlesticks, teacups, a china set, cookware. The whole lot fit in the palm of her hand.

Journey to Porto

Portugal Great Family Destination

During one of our post-dinner strolls, I’d spotted a stylish fiftysomething American couple traveling with their teenager. A glimpse of the future, I thought. What would life be like eight years from now? Where would we travel with Lulu? Who would she become? Would she still enjoy spending time with us?

Train Ride to Porto

On the train north from Lisbon to Porto, she slept in my lap for the first time since she was a toddler. I touched her still-round cheeks and considered her beauty. It’s such a bittersweet part of parenting — that watching your child grow up involves less and less time spent really looking at them.

Once we reached Porto, our excitement at seeing the shimmering Douro River was tempered by the first of several rounds of getting lost. Our hotel, the Rebello, had been open for only two weeks, and the address foiled taxi drivers and Uber’s GPS.

The Rebello Hotel

Comprising four 19th-century industrial buildings across the river from Porto in the city of Vila Nova de Gaia, the Rebello made me feel like I’d been plunked into the most glamorous Elle Decor spread, with concrete floors and touches of steel and tile. Interior designer Daniela Franceschini’s choice of vintage and contemporary furniture and works by Portuguese artists emphasizes the themes of water, wine, and wood. Franceschini explained: “The hotel has a story of manufacturing and wine storage, and we try to preserve it.” I’m still dreaming about the fuchsia velvet desk chair and the citron verbena scent of the Claus Porto toiletries.

Conclusion: Embracing Family Adventures

Traveling with a child requires adjustments, but it also brings unique joys and memories. Our journey through Portugal, from the vibrant streets of Lisbon to the scenic beauty of Porto, was a testament to the beauty and charm of this family-friendly destination. As we explored walkable cities, enjoyed beautiful beaches, and discovered hidden treasures, we created lasting memories and shared in the adventure of a lifetime.

Plan your family trip to Portugal with Desmo Travel and experience the magic of this beautiful country. Whether it’s the cultural richness of Lisbon, the scenic landscapes of Porto, or the serene beaches along the coast, Portugal offers something for every family. Let Desmo Travel help you craft the perfect itinerary for an unforgettable family vacation.